coordinator's message - looking '63 - camp of convenience
One aspect of the hobby that will increase both your knowledge and enjoyment of an event, is tailoring your impression to the specific event. This allows you to learn more about the material culture as well as giving the public a better vision of the war civilians experienced. One’s impression should be tailored to the area a person is from, their social status (what the do for work, or what their husbands do for work), and on how the war has effected them up to this point in 1863.
Underpinnings -
A chemise was universally worn, along with petticoats. Some women wore drawers, which came to just below the knee at this point. White or off-white stockings were the most commonly worn.
Everyone, regardless of class, wore a corset or stays. A few women, for socio-political reasons or due to health movements did not, but they did not wear any other bust support. Wearing a corset can increase ones comfortbility greatly at an event.
Most women would be wearing a modest cage crinoline at this point in time. Some working women would be wearing layers of petticoats and some very wealthy and fashionable women would be wearing larger cage crinolines.
Shoes should have square toes, and be women’s shoes, not men’s.
Dresses -
Dresses were almost always made of one fabric for the bodice and skirt. Common “wash dresses” with gathered bodices made out of period print cotton or wool would be a common dress for most women. Bishop and coat sleeves were common in 1863. Variations on these were endless. Necklines were most often close to the neck, called a “jewel” neckline. Variations are occasionally seen in shallow V necklines. Open neckline were only seen on children and on very fancy silk evening gowns, which no one should be wearing during the day. Some, better off women would be wearing wool or silk day dresses. Noone would be wearing ‘Ball’ or ‘Evening’ gowns during the day. The only women who would have bare arms or shoulders would be young girls, no older than about 15. This would reflect the rest of their outfit, as a child’s style. Some older or more conservative ladies would be wearing out of date fashions, but most women would have been at least in the realm of common, if not fashionable.
As it is one of the hot, summer months, appropriate sheer dresses are also accurate. Styles depended on social class.
Outerwear -
Women would almost always have headwear on out of doors. This does NOT mean a cap or a hairnet. This means either a working bonnet (slat or corded) or a fashion bonnet (while spoon bonnets were fashionable at this time, only those with otherwise fashionable impressions would be wearing one)
Accessories -
Accessories should reflect ones social status. Nearly all adult women would wear either a neckerchief or a white collar. Most sleeves should be worn with cuffs or undersleeves. A neck brooch or a ribbon should be worn with a collar. Other jewelry should be period and appropriate to ones social status.
Hair was almost always parted in the center and worn in a bun. Very, very fine nets were sometimes worn as indoor hair accessories for fashionable women. Much more common would be to have the sides twisted or braided and woven into the bun. Young girls would commonly have their hair either bobbed short to about chin-length and worn down or, if longer, braided.
Baskets should not be used as ones purse. In-seam pockets are much more appropriate.
Aprons, woven shawls, gloves and numerous other accessories are appropriate.
Please use these ideas for a springboard for your own research!
Best Regards,
Victoria Kent
Civilian Coordinator "At High Tide"